You can't surf when you want to.
So if you want to catch a good wave, you have to put up an antenna and adjust to the natural cycle.
Wave size, swell direction, wind, terrain, tide, sky pattern, people ,,,.
The time when various conditions overlap is a blissful time.
It's just a sideway stance, and I feel it's different from snowboarding, which is slipping in a similar way.
When is next?
